Changes in the creative direction of leading luxury brands: how do they affect the design and value of bags?

The luxury fashion universe is constantly evolving, and one of the factors that most influences brand identity is the creative director leading them. In recent years — especially in 2024 and 2025 — we have witnessed significant changes in the creative leadership of iconic houses such as Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Burberry, and Givenchy. These moves not only shape the aesthetic direction of the industry but also impact the second-hand market and the value of luxury bags.

In this article, we tell you who the new protagonists of luxury are, how their visions are redefining collections, and why you should pay attention if you are thinking about investing in or buying a second-hand luxury bag in 2025.

Why is creative direction so important in luxury?

The creative director doesn’t just design clothes or bags; they shape the brand's narrative, its visual and cultural identity. Their decisions influence:

• Seasonal trends.
• The symbolic value of products.
• Strategic collaborations.
• Second-hand market behavior.

When a brand changes creative leadership, waves of expectations and speculation arise that can affect the revaluation of past and future pieces.

Louis Vuitton – Pharrell Williams: luxury with an urban soul

Since his appointment in 2023 as creative director of Louis Vuitton’s menswear line, Pharrell Williams has brought a disruptive and modern energy to the maison.

What has changed?

• Strong presence of streetwear and pop culture.
• Intensive use of vibrant colors and eye-catching materials.
• Immediate success of his first bags like the multicolor Speedy, which has quickly appreciated.

Market impact:

Bags designed under the Pharrell era have created a new collectible category. His limited editions are expected to be highly sought after in the coming years, especially in the pre-loved market.

Gucci – Sabato De Sarno: back to basics

After Alessandro Michele's departure, Gucci bet on a cleaner, timeless vision with Sabato De Sarno, who debuted in 2023 with a more minimalist aesthetic.

What does De Sarno propose?

• Classic Italian elegance.
• Cleaner silhouettes.
• Reduction of the maximalism that characterized the Michele era.

How does this affect your Gucci bags?

Models designed by Michele, such as the Dionysus or Sylvie, have gained value as icons of a more extravagant era. Buying these models now can be an excellent investment while the new releases are still consolidating.

Burberry – Daniel Lee: British modernism with roots 🇬🇧

Burberry is experiencing a new stage of rebirth under the leadership of Daniel Lee, former Bottega Veneta. Since 2023, he has aimed for a more contemporary look without losing British roots.

Main changes:

• New interpretations of the classic trench.
• Use of bright and unexpected colors.
• More structured and functional bags.

Why pay attention?

Lee was responsible for the Cassette bag boom at Bottega Veneta. Many experts predict he will create a new "it bag" for Burberry in the coming months, potentially generating a wave of appreciation for his first collections.

Givenchy – Demna

There is strong speculation that Demna, current creative director of Balenciaga, might take over Givenchy in 2025 following Matthew M. Williams' departure. Although not yet confirmed, this possibility has generated much expectation.

What would this incorporation mean?

• A more radical, disruptive, and provocative Givenchy.
• Possible increase in value of current bags if the house undergoes a complete aesthetic shift.

How does this affect the pre-loved market?

Williams' pieces could become capsules of an era that marked a transition. Buying current models before a radical change could be a strategic move.

Celine, Dior, and other houses: continuity with a modern vision

• Celine – Hedi Slimane: Consolidating his rock and French style, bags like the Triomphe remain best-sellers.
• Dior – Maria Grazia Chiuri: Focuses on femininity and functionality. The Book Tote and Saddle Bag remain among the best-selling and most valued in the pre-loved market.

How do these changes affect the revaluation of bags?

A new creative director can have three key effects on the second-hand market:

• Boosts the value of old models (collectibles from the previous era).
• Introduces new "it bags" with investment potential.
• Reorients the brand’s overall style, changing the perception of aesthetic value.

At Kewaybags, we constantly analyze these changes to offer bags with the greatest revaluation potential.